I have spent hours trying to pick out the right electronics for my longboard trying to find the motor that best suites my needs. I need a nice balance between range and power output. I have been using http://www.howtomakeanelectricskateboard.wordpress.com for some guidance on picking my motor and esc. I am using the same motor but the esc that he used (and that I was about to use) was fried while he was riding. I picked out another one with a high burst current rating.
I plan on plugging the motor into the esc along with the battery and plugging the esc into the arduino (escs are fairly easy to control with an arduino). I’ll then plug the wireless wii nunchuck into the arduino and use that to control throttle and lights. I also plan on installing an emergency kill switch that I can hit with my foot.
Parts List:
Edit: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__22036__NTM_Prop_Drive_50_60_270KV_2400W.html
http://www.amazon.com/Memorex-Wireless-Nunchuk-Black-Nintendo-Wii/dp/B0046SO8CI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1369695979&sr=8-3&keywords=wireless+nunchuck
http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-UNO-board-DIP-ATmega328P/dp/B006H06TVG/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1369696043&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=arduino+uno (I already have a few of these 😉 ) 
Maybe some EL lighting and definitely headlights
BATTERIES I haven’t picked any out yet but I am going to use 25c 6s batteries.
AFC Hacks 
That motor is too high a kv unless you want to break some land speed record and not be able to climb hills. It does depend a little on your pulley sizes but most are using 15T and 30 (i.e. 50% reduction) so I would say 250kv should be your upper limit. Look at the Hobby King Turnigy SK3 63mm section and you will see a number of options. I climb a lot of hills so I went for 190kv for the extra torque and it works nicely for me. I get a top speed of 28km/h on the flats and can climb decent grades at 15km/h. That gets me over 15km or range at 20km/h on flat ground and 10kms in very hilly areas with 6S 5000maH.
For your ESC you should get a car one so you can use the brakes – the plane ones will often just pop under load and definitely under heavy braking for any distance. See the Hobby King 150A 1/8 car esc (browse under the car ESCs). This works for me though like many sensorless ESCs it need you to give the board a single kick first – you can’t take off from a standing start without cogging (rough start)
I have been thinking about belts slipping and I am considering using a chain drive. I don’t think it will be that noisy because they use them on bikes and it barely makes any noise. I would imagine it would be better at accelerating from standing still. Chain drive systems could withstand more stress on its components whereas a belt would just strip or slip. Overall I am just concerned with maintenance(rust prevention, and lubrication) which I wouldn’t have to worry about with a belt drive.
You needn’t worry about slip on acceleration especially if you use a good belt profile designed for power transmission like HTD. You will not be easily able to stay on the board with the type of accel that makes the belt slip. The only slip I get is on hard deceleration and to be honest if I tighten up the belt (too tight) I can eliminate the skip and the wheel skids instead at about the same braking force so I use the belt slip as a measure of reaching braking limits and being gentler. I prefer to replace $5 belts occasionally than more expensive wheels or ride with flat spots. Chains would works but are higher maintenance and can be trouble around such a small wrap as you would want on the motor pinion.
Good luck mate!
I do have to tell you that I just blew the 125A version of the same ESC. I just purcahed the following 150A 1/8 scale RC car ESC as a replacement. Will let you know how I go.
1x #HK150A/30276 Hobby King 150A High performance Brushless Car ESC (AUS Warehouse) = 68.83
2x #HKSS-prog/30277 Hobby King HKSS programming card for HK 150A ESC (AUS Warehouse) = 11.18
If you haven’t purchased the motor already. I would probably go for the 280kv version as well.
Or check even lower kv motors … 245 seems very popular. According to my wattmeter there is burst currents of 400A – very short bursts but definitely ESC destroying. The HK150A claims a 1080A burst and so far it’s holding up.
I am updating my list of electronics, thanks for the heads up. I would not have been happy five miles away from home with a blown esc.
I’m interested to hear how you go with the Arduino
Well, from what I have read online, it is relatively easy. Escs can be controlled just like a servo motor. I also have some experience with arduino. If all goes well I will upload my code and you can make your own controllers.
Any options for an 8s battery charger that can be more plug and play (like a laptop charger)?
I wouldn’t want to ride around with my board plugged into the wall so I’m am assuming no but you could look it up.
I meant a smart charger (they look like laptop chargers) and can plug straight in the battery while still on the board (easier that removing and connecting pins, etc..). No I would not want a wire to the wall while I riding the board either 🙂
I’m pretty sure you can. I was going to research how to properly make one from a lipo charger. If you choose to make one make sure the charge port can be sealed. Liquids, dirt, or debris could short out the batteries and ruin them.
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